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80 micron or 200 micron? PE or PO? The right greenhouse film thickness determines light transmission, heat retention, wind resistance and lifespan. A complete guide by climate, crop and structure.
Greenhouse film thickness — measured in microns (µm) or mil — is the single most important specification after material type. Thickness directly affects five critical performance factors:
| Factor | Thicker Film (150–200 µm) | Thinner Film (80–120 µm) |
|---|---|---|
| Light transmission | Slightly lower (more material to pass through) | Higher (less material, more light) |
| Heat retention (night) | Better (thicker barrier reduces heat loss) | Lower (heat escapes faster through thinner film) |
| Wind & snow resistance | Much better (resists tearing under load) | Lower (can tear in strong wind or heavy snow) |
| Lifespan | Longer (3–5+ seasons with UV stabilization) | Shorter (1–2 seasons typically) |
| Cost | Higher (more material per square meter) | Lower (less material) |
The goal is not to buy the thickest film available — it’s to buy the right thickness for your specific climate, crop and structure. Too thin and you risk catastrophic failure mid-season. Too thick and you’re paying for performance you don’t need while losing light transmission.
Greenhouse film thickness is measured in microns (µm) in most of the world, and in mil (thousandths of an inch) in the United States. Understanding the conversion is essential when comparing products from different suppliers.
| Microns (µm) | Mil | Gauge (UK/Commonwealth) | Common Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| 60 µm | 2.4 mil | 240 gauge | Very light duty, short-season low tunnels |
| 80 µm | 3.1 mil | 320 gauge | Light duty, seasonal tunnels in mild climates |
| 100 µm | 3.9 mil | 400 gauge | Standard for mild climates, 1–2 seasons |
| 120 µm | 4.7 mil | 480 gauge | Medium duty, moderate climates, 2–3 seasons |
| 150 µm | 5.9 mil | 600 gauge | Heavy duty, most common commercial standard, 3–4 seasons |
| 180 µm | 7.1 mil | 720 gauge | Extra heavy duty, windy/snowy climates, 4–5 seasons |
| 200 µm | 7.9 mil | 800 gauge | Maximum duty, extreme conditions, 5+ seasons |
| 250 µm+ | 9.8+ mil | 1000+ gauge | Specialized, permanent structures, very high wind/snow |
Microns to mil: divide by 25.4 (e.g., 150 µm ÷ 25.4 = 5.9 mil)
Mil to microns: multiply by 25.4 (e.g., 6 mil × 25.4 = 152 µm)
Gauge to microns: divide by 4 (e.g., 600 gauge ÷ 4 = 150 µm)
Your climate is the most important factor in choosing greenhouse film thickness. Here’s a breakdown by climate zone:
Mild winters, moderate summer heat, occasional wind, minimal snow. Light transmission is more important than extreme durability.
High temperatures, intense UV radiation, heavy rainfall, possible typhoons/hurricanes. UV resistance and wind strength are critical.
Extreme UV radiation, high daytime temperatures, cold nights, dust/sand storms, minimal rainfall. UV resistance and thermal retention are key.
Strong UV radiation (thinner atmosphere), large day-night temperature swings, possible hail, moderate to high wind. UV resistance and thermal retention are critical.
Cold winters with snow, moderate summers, significant temperature variation. Snow load and heat retention are critical.
Strong prevailing winds, salt spray, moderate temperatures, possible hurricanes/cyclones. Wind resistance and salt resistance are critical.
Different crops have different light and temperature requirements, which influence the ideal film thickness.
| Crop Type | Light Needs | Temp Needs | Recommended Thickness | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tomatoes / Peppers / Cucumbers | High (full sun) | Warm (18–30°C) | 120–150 µm | Light transmission critical; PO film recommended for heat-loving crops |
| Strawberries / Berries | High | Cool-moderate (15–25°C) | 100–150 µm | Low tunnels often use thinner film; high tunnels use standard thickness |
| Leafy Greens / Lettuce / Herbs | Moderate | Cool (10–20°C) | 80–120 µm | Thinner film sufficient; these crops tolerate lower light and cooler temps |
| Flowers / Ornamentals | High (color quality) | Varies by species | 120–150 µm | Light quality (spectrum) matters; EVA film can enhance specific wavelengths |
| Nursery / Seedlings / Propagation | Moderate-high | Warm-humid | 100–120 µm | Often in multi-span structures; uniform light distribution important |
| Melons / Watermelon | Very high | Warm-hot (22–35°C) | 120–150 µm | Maximum light transmission for sugar accumulation; low tunnels common |
| Grapes / Vineyard (rain shelter) | High | Moderate | 100–120 µm | Rain shelters use thinner film; primarily for rain protection, not heat |
The most common small-to-medium commercial structure. Single curved roof, no side walls (or low side walls). Film is under tension over hoops.
Large commercial structures with connected bays, gutters between spans, and often ventilation systems. More rigid than single-span.
Small, low tunnels (0.5–1.5m high) over individual rows, often used for season extension and crop protection. Temporary structure.
Taller tunnels (2.5–4m high) that allow walk-in access. Larger than low tunnels but smaller than commercial greenhouses.
The material type interacts with thickness — different materials have different strength and light properties at the same micron rating.
| Material | Typical Thickness Range | Strength at Same Thickness | Light Transmission | Thermal Retention | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| PE (Polyethylene) | 80–200 µm | Good | 85–90% | Moderate | General purpose, mild climates, budget-conscious |
| PO (Polyolefin) | 100–200 µm | Excellent | 90–92% | Excellent | Cold climates, high altitude, desert, long-life commercial |
| EVA (Ethylene Vinyl Acetate) | 80–150 µm | Good | 88–91% | Good | Flowers, nursery, diffuse light applications |
| PET / Reinforced | 150–300 µm | Superior | 85–88% | Excellent | Permanent structures, extreme wind/snow, long-term (10+ years) |
Because PO (polyolefin) film is inherently stronger and more durable than PE at the same thickness, you can often use a PO film that is 20–30 µm thinner than an equivalent PE film and get the same or better lifespan. For example, a 120 µm PO film may outlast a 150 µm PE film in the same conditions. This offsets PO’s higher per-kilogram cost.
Thickness is the primary driver of greenhouse film lifespan, but UV stabilization quality, climate, and installation quality also play major roles.
| Thickness | Expected Lifespan (Mild Climate) | Expected Lifespan (Harsh Climate) | Typical UV Rating |
|---|---|---|---|
| 80 µm | 1 season (6–9 months) | 3–6 months | Basic UV |
| 100 µm | 1–2 seasons | 1 season | Standard UV |
| 120 µm | 2–3 seasons | 1–2 seasons | Standard UV+ |
| 150 µm | 3–4 seasons | 2–3 seasons | Premium UV |
| 180 µm | 4–5 seasons | 3–4 seasons | Premium UV+ |
| 200 µm | 5+ seasons | 4–5 seasons | Premium UV++ |
Note: “Seasons” typically refers to a full growing season (6–9 months). A film rated for “3 seasons” may last 18–27 months in continuous use. Actual lifespan depends heavily on UV intensity, wind, dust, and installation quality.
If you have existing film and need to know its thickness (for replacement or comparison), use one of these methods:
Never assume your existing film is the thickness you think it is. Installers sometimes substitute thinner film to save cost, or the original specification may have been different from what you remember. Always measure with a micrometer before ordering replacement film to ensure you get the same or upgraded thickness.
150 microns (5.9 mil / 600 gauge) is the global standard for commercial single-span greenhouses. It offers a good balance of light transmission, durability, thermal retention and cost for most temperate and subtropical climates.
No. Thicker film reduces light transmission (more material for light to pass through) and costs more. In mild climates with no snow or high wind, 100–120 µm film may perform better than 200 µm because it transmits more light. Choose thickness based on your specific climate and durability needs, not “thicker is better.”
In a mild temperate climate with good UV stabilization, 150 µm film typically lasts 3–4 growing seasons (18–30 months). In harsh climates with intense UV, heavy wind, or snow, expect 2–3 seasons. Premium PO film with high-grade UV stabilizers can last 4–5 seasons even in harsh conditions.
Not recommended. 100 µm film is too thin for areas with sustained winds above 30 km/h (20 mph). Wind flutter will fatigue the film quickly, leading to tears at attachment points and along the edges. Use at least 150 µm in windy areas, and 180–200 µm in areas with frequent strong winds or gusts.
For areas with occasional light snow (under 10 cm / 4 inches), 150 µm is sufficient if the structure has good roof pitch for snow shedding. For areas with moderate to heavy snow (10–30 cm / 4–12 inches), use 180 µm minimum. For areas with heavy, wet snow or ice storms, use 200 µm+ and ensure the structure is engineered for snow load. Note that structure strength is more important than film thickness for snow load — film will tear before the structure collapses, but a weak structure can collapse under snow even with thick film.
Actually, the opposite is true. PO (polyolefin) film is inherently stronger and more durable than PE at the same thickness, so you can often use PO film that is 20–30 µm thinner than an equivalent PE film. For example, if your climate requires 150 µm PE, a 120–130 µm PO film will provide equal or better durability, while also offering better light transmission and thermal retention.
Signs that greenhouse film needs replacement include: visible discoloration (yellowing, browning), brittleness (cracks when folded), reduced light transmission (visible haziness), tears or punctures that can’t be repaired, and loss of anti-fog/anti-drip properties (water droplets form instead of sheeting). If you’re unsure, measure light transmission with a light meter — if it’s dropped more than 10–15% from new, it’s time to replace.
PE and PO greenhouse film from 80–200 µm, with UV stabilization, thermal IR, anti-fog and anti-dust additives. Factory-direct, 30+ years experience, ISO 9001 certified.
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